Wednesday, 31 December 2014

Runway queens and the perilous road to size zero

 
 Many models go to the extreme to keep their jobs by taking pills and starving themselves in other to remain skinny despite the health implication of this risky venture. Angela Davies writes on the importance of being skinny in the runway business.
Models are present in every part of the world in commercials, high fashion print magazine and on the runway. They are frequently portrayed as images for the “ideal” body frame for young girls, thus, giving them a false impression of what they “should” look like and that is being ‘skinny.’ Weight is a sensitive but real issue in the business of modelling. For those concerned, there is nothing wrong with being skinny, but being underweight or extremely skinny, as a model has raised dust in different countries around the world. Many of these models have an unrealistic body frame.


 


They take pills and also starve themselves just to hold jobs so that they will not be labelled, ‘too fat’. And most times, these models are typically 23 per cent below their expected body weight. Health experts have warned that the use of diet pills, which is very common for the size zero models, results in bowel and bladder disorders.
Eventually, the heart may stop functioning because there is no more fuel to burn. Unfortunately in 2006, two size zero models faced untimely deaths due to complications with anorexia nervosa. Anorexia nervosa is an eating disorder characterised by immoderate food restriction, inappropriate eating habits, obsession with having a thin figure, and an irrational fear of weight gain which is accompanied by a distorted body self-perception, and typically involves excessive weight loss.
This eating disorder is prevalent among many female models as they compete to keep up with the industry’s pressures to be thin and hold jobs. Former Brazilian supermodel, Ana Carolina Reston, died in November 2006, after being told she was “too fat” at a size six. As such, she lived off a diet consisting of tomatoes and fruit juice. Uruguayan model, Luisel Ramos, also suffered from anorexia nervosa, which at a size 00 was the cause of her tragic death in August 2006.
Their shocking deaths forced the fashion industry to take a reality check. Madrid was the first fashion capital to try to combat this universal issue on the runways. On September 13, 2006, Madrid Fashion Week set a ban for underweight models. It was recommended that healthy weight of models that should be on the runway at the Madrid Fashion Week shows should have a healthy Body Mass Index (BMI) number of 18 or above.





Any models that held a BMI under 18 would be deemed “unhealthy.” Madrid’s action against unhealthily skinny models soon snowballed, as it inspired the cities of Milan, Edinburgh and India to adopt the same 18+ BMI policies for their fashion weeks. Also, in January 2007, the action towards healthier models reached the United States as the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) met to discuss healthier guidelines for models within the fashion industry.
Although in Nigeria, skinny models are seen on the runway showcasing beautiful designs of the varied designers.
However, with the inclusion of plus size models on the runway, the question is, is it still the norm for models to be skinny? Do Nigerian models also starve themselves just to hold jobs and stay in shape? Also, should designers be the ones to determine what the ideal size of models should be in the industry? Joan Okorodudu, fashion designer and brain behind Isis modelling agency and organiser of Nigeria’s Next Super Model competition said, “Well in this day and age with the kind of jobs that are available, it is the skinny models that do the regular modelling jobs.
We also have the plus size models but of course for you to be a plus size model; you have to be looking at America and even South Africa. But it will not pay you in Nigeria because there are no too many plus size jobs on the runway. In terms of models starving themselves, I don’t think they should starve themselves. Remember that there are models that naturally have a skinny look. There are models that no matter what they eat, they will never be fat and I have got a lot of those types of models. A model should be skinny but healthy.
” Speaking on the ideal model size in Nigeria, Okorodudu stated that, “Well if the model will be part of international fashion week shows, then, the right model size is size six. I will not use a model who is more than a size six in my fashion shows and this also applies to the Nigeria’s Next Super Model competition.” On why some designers have preference for size eight models because of their curvy shape, Okorodudu said, “Well if you are a size eight model, you have to maintain Nigeria. I do a lot of international shows and to make waves outside Nigeria as a model, you have to be a size six because that is the norm.

I didn’t create it.” Model groomer, Chike Osigwe, stated that runway models should be skinny and healthy but not extremely skinny. “Runway models should not be too skinny. To be a runway model you should be a size six or eight so that you will not lose your shape. Whether you are a professional or a starter, you need the right shape to work with. To stay in shape, I take models through numerous exercises so that they will be flexible. Also, I advise them to stay away from fatty and oily foods. “Also, you don’t have to starve yourself just to hold jobs.
All you need is to eat right and by eating right, I mean you have to watch what you eat so that you don’t grow too big for fashion. These days, we also have the plus size models but being a plus size does not mean you should be too fat or have a big stomach. You also need to work on yourself to stay in shape. As a model whether skinny or plus size, charisma matters a lot on the runway,” he said.
Meg Alabi, ex-model and fashion designer, said that, “Today we have both skinny and plus size models, however, the skinny models are more used on the runway internationally and locally as well. The reason is because of the features they possess which are the shoulders, neck and build. Also, skinny models look better in modelling clothes.
But models should not be extremely skinny thus looking unhealthy. As we know, there is even a ban on models that are extremely skinny in recent times.” She added that, “The ideal size in the industry is six and eight. We have mostly size eight models than any other size in Nigeria. For me, models do not have to starve themselves to hold jobs. There are some models that eat so much, but, they do not gain weight. Yet, some models eat just a little and they gain some weight. It all boils down to understanding your body so that you don’t go out of shape. When I was modelling, there were many of us that use to take drugs and things that would make us add a little weight because we were really skinny.
But at the end, you just have to accept and appreciate how God has created you.” She said that as a designer, she works with both healthy skinny and plus size models for her fashion shows because what matters to her is their carriage. “My choice of models depends on their carriage because my label caters for all sizes of women. So, usually when I am doing a fashion show, I use both skinny and plus size models but most importantly, I am more particular about how the models carry my clothes. Sometimes a plus size model even has more carriage than a slim model. So, for me, it’s about carriage because the carriage of the outfit, sells the outfit. Also, the carriage of the outfit could kill the outfit.”
Also, Samuel Elendu, ex-model and fashion designer based in the East, stated that the ideal size of models in Nigeria is six and eight, however, his preference are the size eight models. “The ideal size of models in Nigeria is six and eight. But don’t forget that in recent times, we also have the plus size models. Nevertheless, I don’t support models that are extremely skinny because, they look sick and hungry.
My perfect model size is eight. Most designers will go for size six models but I prefer size eight models because they have curves to flaunt your designs. Recently, I had to drop a model from showcasing my clothes at a fashion show because she looks too skinny and I knew the dresses would not look good on her and the fitting will also not be there. She felt bad but that is how it works sometimes.
As a designer, you need models with good carriage to showcase your outfits.” Speaking on his criteria when choosing models for his fashion shows, Elendu said, “I do more of couture dresses so I choose models with the statistics between bust 34 and 36, waist 26 and 29 then hip 37 and 42 because when a model who is curvy wears a couture dress, it looks beautiful. You don’t need anybodyto tell you that the dress is beautiful on her.
I don’t like size zero models, they look too skinny and they don’t look good in dresses.” Reminiscing on his modelling days on how he stays in shape, he said that, “When I was still modelling, I use to eat a lot of fruits in the morning and at night. I also drink plenty of water. But I eat very heavy food in the afternoon. I don’t exercise because I am a naturally slim person and I did not starve myself. I won’t even encourage models to starve themselves to hold jobs. They should just understand their body type and work on it. I think we designers in Africa should start encouraging size eight models.
Look at Noami Campbell she is a size eight and anything she wears is perfect on her. Size eight models are wonderful. I hate it when models are so skinny.”
For model, Ibikunle Atinuke, “I neither starve myself to hold jobs nor take drugs to make me loose or add weight. I drink water a lot, eat lots of fruits and sleep a lot to maintain my shape. The ideal model size in the industry is size eight but sometimes designers prefer size six or 10 models. Some jobs are height restricted while some is for everybody as long as you have the charisma.”
Princess Obi, a student and model, said, “As a model, there are specific requirements. You can’t be overly big although these days, they have inculcated plus size models. When you are fit, you have a chance; there is no necessity about size.
However, skinny models get more call ups and runway jobs than the plus size models. To stay in shape, personally, I exercise morning and night but I won’t say I do some serious exercise. I am naturally skinny but healthy. I do not starve myself neither do I take drugs that will make me gain some weight. However, I don’t eat late at night so that my stomach will not begin to bulge.”
She added that, she has not been dropped by any designer because of her size. “There are designers that make clothes not for the runway because they want to sell them. So, those designers might have problem with the skinny models. That is because if they make clothes for this size of models, they might not find customers that would buy those particular outfits. I have not been dropped because most of the jobs I have done, you go for fittings first so that they will make clothes strictly for you for the fashion show. Then if they have to sell the dresses, they use the one made for you as a sample for other works they have to do.”
Ayinde Tomisola, who is also a model, said that models should not be too skinny nor starve themselves. “I actually do not starve myself to look fit to get a job and I am a size six. For me, I don’t drink too much of sugar based drinks, I exercise and don’t eat too late. I don’t believe a model must be extremely skinny or even starve herself, I think it is unhealthy. Designers all across the world prefer skinny models because of their carriage.”

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